Germia - gaming world

DIY Elder Wand from Harry Potter tutorial by Germia + FREE PATTERN

I decided to make the Elder Wand from Harry Potter as a gift for my brother, because when we visited Universal Studios in Japan together, he wanted to buy a wand, but I discouraged him by saying I can make one for him if he wants, because duh, I'm a cosplayer, we do stuff like this!

I asked him which wand he likes and the most famous one, the Elder Wand, was the one he chose. But if you fancy one of the wide variety of other wands, that are present in Harry Potter universe, you can apply my technique on any other chosen wand too!


Yes, I know you can buy a lot of wands pretty cheap in pretty decent quality, but there's nothing better than a feeling you made something by yourself! But if still prefer buying it, THIS is one of the decent looking wand auctions I found and the price is pretty cheap and it is actually a light inside!

And yes, I know there are a lot of tutorials how to make wands on the internet, so I try to show you 3 different techniques depending on what result you want to achieve!

Přidat popisek


"I just want a cool Halloween costume"

  • (Round) chopsticks or skewers
  • Hotgluegun with hotglue sticks
  • Acrylic paints
  • (Blowtorch or a lighter)
  • Small decorations (depending on a chosen wand)

I wouldn't choose this technique especially for the elegant wands, but for some organic looking, this can be the good way to make a wand from your chopstick.
I'd advice you to sand down the chopsticks, that are not round or doesn't have a smooth surface first. Then apply the hotglue on the chopstick with a lower heat, so it doesn't melt and drop and form it with your fingers (be careful with the heat, use water to protect your fingers).
The girl in video below uses for the bumpy structure beads as a decoration, but I'd recommend heating up the  hotglue lightly and pressing in a wet tip of the brush or a round stick, so it looks more convincing. You can see how it is made in a video below:


"I want to have a good cosplay, but I don't mind some minor imperfections"


  • (Round) chopsticks or skewers
  • Aluminium foil
  • Masking tape
  • Acrylic paints
  • Modelling (polymer) clay, that can be hardened in an oven (Super sculpey gray, cernit, fimo, premo)
  • Sculpting tools - pointy rubber tip, metal ball tip, dental explorer tool (or anything sharp), acrylic rolling pin or pasta maker, clay softener
  • Paper and printer

I chose this technique for my Elder Wand for my brother, because he is not a cosplay judge, so he doesn't need to have the wand 100 % accurate, but I still wanted the want to look very convincing and almost like a replica prop.
First I found a good referrence pictures for the Elder Wand - one screenshot from the movie, one pic of a movie replica and one referrence of the inscription pattern on the handle.

I made a pattern in a vector program to have an idea about the size of the wand and position and size of the bumps. You can DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN HERE, or from a picture below. Print it on A4, cut and glue the both pieces together. The resulting pattern should measure around 36-37 cm.

Then I started making the wand using 3 skewers and I taped them together with masking tape on few places leaving only one skewer for the skinniest part on top of the wand.
Then I wrapped the places, where the bumps should be with and aluminium foil and taped them in place with masking tape. This step is not necessary, but it makes the whole wand a little lighter and it makes you use much less polymer clay.
Then I rolled the polymer clay and I started wrapping the wand in layers of polymer clay (I recommend using darker color of clay like black or brown, so you can use less time covering it with color and scratches are not so visible) till I was satisfied with the amount of clay and I shaped the clay in the right proportions with my fingers.
After that I've used  ball tip tool for making those small crater like gaps in the  bumpy areas, I've also used rubber tip for making the wood structure between the bumps and sharp tool for making the area with small inscriptions. Be careful by working, don't smash with your fingers the places, that are already finished! Then I've transfered the wand to the bakng plate with baking paper, used clay softener to get rid of the fingerprints and baked the whole thing (follow the instructions on your polymer clay to know how to bake it).

The first part of me making the wand like this live is here:

For the painting, I've used dark brown matte color as a base and the I've used my sponge-tapping technique (that works similarly to drybrushing, but it's alittle easier) and applied lighter shades of browns and yellows to make the wand appear more structured and wooden.
For the inscription part, I painted it with white color mixed with yellowishbrown to make it look like a bone color. I made 2-3 layers to cover the dark color underneath, let it dry and then I painted the small inscriptions with a really tiny brush in a dark brown, almost black color.
I let it dry and then I sprayed it with transparent acrylic varnish to make it shiny and beautiful.

Watch me painting the wand live here:

Sledujte hru Bezová hůlka z Harryho Pottera 2/2 od uživatele DATgermia na adrese

As a final touch I printed out a stand for the wand from black PLA on my 3D printer and painted it with golden color with my sponge-tapping technique.

You can download several different very beautiful 3D printable stands in the links below:

My result







"I want to win a darn cosplay contest"

Molding a peeper sculpture from
Monster Clay using water based clay
Advantage - after making a silicone mold, you can reproduce the wand very easily, you get consistent result every time, very lightweight (depending on used resin),
Disadvantage - Very expensive and time-consuming preparation

This method is ideal if you want to have a great replica or reproduce the wand you've made in future.
It starts the same as the second method, the only thing that changes is the clay you use. Monster clay is used for scupltures, it is quite hard in normal room temperature and you can form when you heat it.
The whole success of your work depends on how sculpt the wand in first place.

After your wand is scuplted, put it into your refridgerator, so it doesn't deform when you insert it in the water based clay. Prepare a layer of water based clay and insert your wand inside, so one half is covered in the clay and the other sticks out. Seal carefully all the connections of clay and monster clay and make little dots with your brush in the clay. Create a border around the whole thing with carboard or foam + hotglue. Mix and pour your silicone inside the finished border, try not to touch the monster clay by pouring. Cover the whole area with good amount of silicone and let it harden. After it's hard, open the border and get rid of all the water based clay very carefully. Do not disconnect the monster clay wand from the silicone. When cleaned, spray the silicone with Ease Release spray, so your silicone layers doesn't stick to each other. Assemble the cardboard border again around the cleaned silicone with the master Monster caly wand in it. Mix and pour second layer of silicon covering the whole thing richly. Let harden. Then carefully disassemble, take out the monster clay master wand. Spray inside of the mold with Ease Release, use hard rubber bands or double sided velcro to close the silicone together, mix your resin and pour it inside the mold. Let harden, take outside, clean the edges with sharp knife + sanding paper and it's ready to paint! You can use the same painting technique like I did on my wand!

See the whole molding and casting process in this video:

This article was made with support of my Patrons on my Patreon! There will be no time doing this without them!
I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM.

And if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON.



FAKE RUST EFFECT made easy on foam armor - by Germia

One of the big challenges of cosplay is to make something real (like metal armor) or unreal (like magical wings)  come to life using different crafts and different art supplies available.

Rust is one of those things, that seem very hard to accuratelly mimic, so I decided to try different techniques and figure out which technique is the most convincing and which of the rust effects has the best properties to be used at foam armor.


Finding the referrence pictures for the thing you want to make is a very important step in your creation process. Much more important in making rust effects, because there are so many different rust colors and shapes, that you may want to mimic:

Související obrázek
Dripping rust on mostly vertical surfaces
Výsledek obrázku pro rust paint
Rusting chipping off from a painted metal

Výsledek obrázku pro rusty screw
Very old metal covered in a lot of rust and dirt layers

Výsledek obrázku pro rusted surface
Not always has rust a mass and grain, but only color

Finding your referrence and deciding if there is a big mass of rust and dirt or if there is just a slight shade of rust color, that doesn't require using any medium, just colors, is an important tip.

What is also important is, that rust is more profound on places, where water and dirt would pile up (creases, hardly accessible places) or on places, where it is the most exposed to the weather conditions.


Choosing the right medium for your project is another important step. I was making a cosplay armor out of foam, which would stay flexible for the most time, so I was looking for something, that wouldn't just look good, but would also be able to bend and flex.

I prepared four pieces of foam, that I primed and painted the same as the armor of Apollyon. If you want to learn how to make this, please, follow my tutorial HERE.


Real rust sounds very impressive to me, so I decided to include it in the test. I found THIS TUTORIAL by Arkadycosplay and gathered all the necessary materials:

The most important thing is to mix those supplies:

1) Hydrogen peroxide - be sure to buy the stronger version, not the one for cleaning ears.

2) Vinegar

3) Metal powder

4) Spray bottle

5) Salt

in a ratio of 6 parts hydrogenated peroxide, 3 parts vinegar, and 1 part salt in spray bottle. Stick the metal powder on your armor and spray it with the mixture. That's very basicly how it's done, but for the full tutorial, click on the link above.

So, let's take a look on how I did:

I started with purchasing ferrous powder out of e-bay, because I didn't have such luck as Arkadycosplay finding the ferrous powder in a any sculpting or crafting supply store. The first unsettling thing was the color of the powder, which was much darker than I expected. And I think the powder's questionable composition was the main reason why my experiment failed. I didn't give up and purchased a ferrous powder from a store for chemical industry, but my experiment failed again and instead of a rusty surface, I got a black mash on the armor piece, which crumbled off when dried.

I wasn't happy my experiment failed, but maybe you can learn from my mistakes, find a better powder to work with and use this for your props. On the other side I didn't expect to use real rust, because I know real rust is crumbly and not flexible and I really needed the rust to stay on the armor and be flexible.


I found a special paste called EASY ROST in local crafts store, that is meant for painting rust, where you should combine two different colors + yellow tint to achieve a convincingly rusty effect.

I tried it and I have to admit even I didn't use it as my go to way of paintign my armor eventually because of too strong color with a lot of reddish hues, I find this way the easiest and fastest for flexible armor. The outcome is very convincing and flexible.

You just start by choosing the red or brown paste, then add as much as you want to achieve the mass and the color you want and after that you add some yellow for different hues and for making the result more natural and non-conform.

Here's a short video of how to use this paste:

And here is me using this technique on one pauldron. After that I decided to use rather the technique 4, but I blended both techniques together quite well:

Sledujte hru Apollyon cosplay od uživatele DATgermia na adrese


There are several different spraypaints for creating rust effects, but I have bought this one from Maston.

Obviously I didn't plan to use it for my armor entirely, but I was curious what is achievable with this paint and how convincing would the surface look.

This product is very handy for large surfaces, or if you need to cover something in rust entirely. It does have a little too conform color, so the look isnt really organic, but I think it can be fixed by using airbrush.
It also doesn't have a lot of mass in itself, it makes just a delicate grainy surface.


I tried to use a sctructure gel, that can be used for making the acrylic colors dry slower and make their mass more profound. I had at the time of the experiment just the glossy one, but for my armor, I've used a satin matte one to get rid of the shine. I know rust has a grainy texture, so I've used some fine sand I collected at a beach. And since the outcome of mixing those two ingredients is quite transparent, you'll need some acrylics to finish the look.
The best colors you can use are: Dark brown to red, orange and yellow. I thought I would use some old brass and copper colors too, but rust is not that "fancy", it has mostly matte color with reddish shade, so I've used Umber, Burnt sienna and two shades of brwonish yellow eventually.

Start by using your brown color to mark areas on your armor, where you want the rust to appear. When satisfied, mix your sand with acrylic structure till you have a paste from it and apply it in unevenly on your marked places on your armor. Wait till it's completelly dry (it will be transparent - now you can see the places because you've applied the brown acrylic color first).
Then start by painting the whole rusty area dark brown, then add burnt sienna (reddish color) in a smaller amount unevenly and end up by drybrushing the rusty area with your chosen yellow color very carefully.

You can watch me using this technique on my helmet and gloves in this livestream recording:

Sledujte hru Apollyon cosplay od uživatele DATgermia na adrese


There are a lot of other ways how to do a rust effect for your cosplay, so you can take a look at them too:

Coffee (or Covfefe)
Model kits with salt


Here is the picture of all my tested products:

1) Real rust (failed) - right upper corner

2) Rostpaste - left upper corner

3) Rust spraypaint - left bottom corner

4) Acrylic gel with sand - right bottom corner

 And here are some pictures of the finished armor with rust effects using 4th technique:

Process of painting
Acrylic structure gel is drying




Germia + Antony Gomes

Pictures of my finished cosplay:

Germia + Milos Mlady
Germia + Photo Kay

This article was made with support of my Patrons on my Patreon! There will be no time doing this without them!
I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM.

And if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON.


Cosplay life saver - What should be in a good repair kit?

When I made my first costume, I was very surprised, when I found out it requires much more care than clothes you wear everyday. After my first event, there were scratches, tears and chipped off color on some places of the armor, and with more wearing, there were also signs of wearing on sewn buckles and other stuff. And I realised working on clothes, that you should wear all day isn't the same as model kit building or art drawing. Everything has to be made with a plan, everything has to be made from high quality durable materials, stressed places always reinforced and even then THERE IS MAINTENANCE NEEDED AFTER/DURING EVERY EVENT (especially when you are travelling (by plane) and the costume gets handled by other people than you).

It's not because we cosplayers can't make anything good and durable. It's because we are making original and fantasy creations, to which there is no real (by generations of making proven) manual how they should be made, which materials to use or how to make all the pieces of the costume work as they do in their fantasy enviroments (in comparison to historic costumes, mainly sewn or made from different materials).

From certain time of my cosplay 'life', I carry a REPAIR KIT as my FIRST AID to every event. It allows me to be very efficient and nimble when something on the costume goes wrong just with few things in the kit.

Contents of a cosplay repair kit

The contents of your personal repair kit depend on the costume you are going to wear and it's materials.

On the picture, there is a picture of my COMPLETE repair kit I carry to events, where I compete or promote a company for more than one day.

On one day appearances and non-competing cons, the repair kit is much smaller just with basic things. But let's look at this complete one!

P.S. When travelling by plane, your repair kit should be in your checked baggage and your batteries in your carry-on baggage. If you carry spare electronics like LED's or servos, you make the chance of your baggage opening by airport security higher.

1) Fast epoxy transparent glue

On events, there is mostly no time to wait till your glue is dry, so I prefer to use faster glues than I would use for building the costume at home. Transparency gives the glue even wider spread of use.

2, 3) Soldering Iron + small solder

I carry soldering iron with solder only when I have a costume with soldered connections. These connection can sometimes break and soldering iron can make your armor and props shine and move again!

4) Electrician's tape

I carry this tape all the time. It is very good not only to cover soldered connections. In a universal black finish, you can use it to cover or connect different kinds of stuff, especially on mechanical parts.

5) Charger, powerbanks

If you use some bigger batteries in your build, don't forget to carry a suitable charger for them. If you use powerbanks instead, carry a spare powerbank to exchange during the day and a charger to charge it at the hotel room.

6) Chemoprene glue 

Chemoprene is on of the basic glues, that should be involved in every cosplay first aid. Even it requires knowledge and a little of time to work with, it cann connect foam or fabric pieces together and there is no foam build without it.

7) Superglue

I didn't have much trust in superglues for a long time, but if you really invest money in them and buy a good quality expensive superglue, you will be amazed in how many things it can help you. For me most noticeably in gluing 3D prints or fake leather. I recommend using superglues in form of gel, because you get much more control over it.

8) Denser epoxy glue

Another epoxy glue with a longer drying time and denser constistency helps you cover areas on your worbla armor or disconnected 3D prints or chipped cement. I use a quick grey epoxy, that you can use it also as a filling cement in a need. I always carry with me a spatula of some kind and a strong or waxed paper, so I'm able to work with epoxy glues everywhere.
You can carry with you a stronger epoxy with longer drying time to achieve a stronger bond as a secondary glue. In a basic repair kit you should have at least one universal epoxy glue.

9, 10) Hotglue sticks, hotglue gun

Hotglue gun should be present in every cosplay repair kit - it has universal use and I use it mainly for gluing armor straps or (almost) any repair, that needs a mass of glue to be present (filling holes). Be sure to take some more sticks of glue with you, hotglue can be consumed very fast.

11) Small pliers, spanner, small mechanical pieces

I use pliers mainly when my costume involves mechanical structures or electronics. For example for fastening nuts on screws or I use them to hold electtronics when soldering or snip wires. If you are using small pieces in your costumes like screws and nuts, take spare ones and a fitting spanner to them.

12) Feet odor spray

I know it looks ridiculous to carry something like that, but if you have a leather costume with armor pieces added to it, it is very hard to keep it "clean and good smelling", especially when you have to wear it everyday. You won't make your armor smell better with adding new smells with your parfumes. Take a odor remover and spray it with it - you won't smell like a parfume shop and feel much better.

Fury's wig requires repeated maintenance,
that you have to do even in the hotel room.

13) Strong hairspray

Hairspray is one of the key components of almost every repair kit. For most cosplays, your wig needs to look a certain way and any travelling or wear can destroy it's styling. If you want to have a good wig game, have a good hairspray near you.

14) Universal scissors

Scissors are a universally used tool, that you should not forget to put in your future cosplay kit - cutting fabric, thinner foam or different straps is much easier with scissors tahn with a knife without a proper cutting pad. I personally carry one pair of normal sized scissors in my repair kit a smaller and much sharper pair of (cosmetic) scissors in a cosmetic bag.

15) Fixing spray

Fixing spray (by Kryolan) is one of the best helpers you can take to a con, especially if you plan to have an elaborate makeup or a bodypaint. It can be involved in your makeup kit, but due to it's larger size, I carry it rather in a repair kit.

16) Screwdriver kit

Another tool similar to small pliers in a very small package. Small kit with different screwdriver heads used to maintain mechanical parts and connections - if your costume has some.

17) Acrylic colors

Set of basic range of acrylic colors, that were involved in the process of making of a particular costume.

18) Sponges/brushes

Set of basic brushes or sponges to be able to apply colors to your armor.

19) Lighter

Lighter is very useful to clean edges of some fabrics or make hotglue formable again. It should be a part of any basic repair kit.

20)  Knives

Hobby knives are also an important of any repair kit - there is no cleaner edge with a good sharpened knife.

21) Spare batteries

If your build involves small electronics, spare batteries are necessary part of your repair kit. Be careful on airports, since you can't have batteries in your checked baggage.

22) Makeup

I have ussually a separate bag for makeup and accessories, but for some bigger projects, I carry some bigger makeup parts in my repair kit to spare room or to have it ready at the con if the bodypaint gets damaged.

23) Strong duckttape

Important part of any repair kit is a strong duckttape (in black color). Thanks to black color, it can be hidden much easiser than the silver one and it can save you a lot of trouble at the con.

24) Wig styling accessories

IF your cosplay involves wig, you'd need at least a compact comb to be able to style it if necessary. On some events I carry also a mannequin head to be able to style the wig at the hotel and transport it more safely.

25) Small sewing kit

Any cosplay requires a sewing kit with threads in colors depending on a cosplay you are having on. I always take black and brown + additional colors and needles.

26) Spare cord

I wear a lot of corsets, so I always carry a spare black cord if I lose mine or I forgot it. If you don't have one I once went with two shoelaces bind together, but a spare cord is much easier!

Damage on Xena's armor caused by travelling
and fixed with Apoxie sculpt and acrylics

27) Pre-sewn straps

I carry some pre-sewn brown straps, that are very useful when something doesn't hold properly or when you make your strap too short, or get a little bigger overtime. It helped me a bunch of times already to have them with me ready to be used.

28) Velcro

Velcro is one of the basic stuff you have to have in your repair kit. I use velcro on all my builds and I love to work with it. If yomething doesn't hold, is to short or something fails, you can count on velcro straps to help you.

29) Foam

I mostly carry just 2mm thick foam pieces with me and for most purpuoses it is enough. I've used it for small decorations, that fell off, or on foam, that teared for underglueing.

30) Other

There are also things you may need to prepare for an event at the hotel, so you don't have to take them with you. It's mainly a hairdryer, flat-iron and electricity adapter (in foreign countries).

There are so many other things you may need for your particular costume! Think about what can go wrong, what is fragile and which materials and tools you've used  when making your costume!

A smaller repair kit

If you want to build a smaller and more "practical" repair kit, you should include (depedning on your costume):
On needle with a thread, scissors, knife, chemoprene glue, fast epoxy glue, hotglue, ducktape, velcro, basic paints (mostly black and silver) and lighter.

I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM.

And if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON, because their donations made this tutorial possible.


Pic source:


How to make SWORD for cosplay by Germia + Apollyon sword tutorial

Sword is that kind of a prop, that every cosplayer will work on some day in their "cosplay life" and there are a lot of ways how to make one depending on it's size, desired features, weight.

I have already made some swords, that I've already written about and you can check them out in their dedicated articles:

PALADIN COSPLAY - plywood core, polystyrene, papermache, latext cement, foam, leather

XENA COSPLAY - polystyrene core, worbla, leather

ANNA VALERIOUS COSPLAY  - foam core, worbla, velvet

And also we've made a panel about the sword topic at Animefest with Ali and Ketrin that you can check out in czech language right here:

Cut through a sword prop - red material is hard, black is soft
Sword building types:

According to the size, shape and desired properties, you can divide swords into 4 categories:


= Soft core and infill, hard shell
This type of construction is suitable for shorter swords and daggers, it is not ideal for longer and bigger swords.
Advantage: low weight, simple construction

Soft material: Styrene, EVA foam
Hard material: Thermoplastics, papermaché

Example: Anna Valerious sword
I started with foam, that I cit nad dremmeled into the right shape and I covered the whole thing in worbla.


= Hard core, soft infill and no shell
This type of construction is suitable for any kind of sword with enough thiskness to be able to absorb the core.
Advantage: realtive low weight (depending on the core used), simple construction, some cores allws for the sword to be disassembled.

Soft material: EVA foam - the more dense foam, the sturdier and durable the outcome
Hard material for core: wood (stick, plank), plywood (plan or cut in shape), plastic plumbing

Example: Apollyon sword (more about this follows)


= Hard core, soft infill, hard shell
This type of construction is suitable for any kind of sword with enough thiskness to be able to absorb the core.
Advantage: very sturdy (but high weight)

Soft material: EVA foam, Styrene
Hard material for core: wood (stick, plank), plywood (plan or cut in shape), plastic plumbing
HARD material for shell: Thermoplastics, papermaché

Example: Paladin sword - cut plywood, styrene foam cut in shape, papermaché, ltex cement + foam decorations.


= fully hard, made from the same material
This type of construction is suitable for any kind of sword with material, that can withstand a lot of damage

Material: 3D printed from filament, Resin casted

Example: Megari dagger

You always have to use certain hardness of material not to end up with a brittle prop. When 3D printing, think about the amount and pattern of infill, wall thickness and used materials (some materials can withstand much more pressure and are not so brittle - read here)

Apollyon's sword

Patterning this sword is described in THIS ARTICLE.
I decided to use the construction of hard core and soft material on the outside for this project. I really needed this super long sword to be sturdy (hard core) and I also wanted to make a lot of decorations and effects similar to the rest of the foam armor. I decided not to cover my sword in worbla to keep it lightweight and match with the rest of the armor. I was also sure that poly-props CF100 foam would withstand a lot of damage by itself because of it's high density.

I started with a wooden plank and wooden stick, that I cut and glued and srewed together. I also cut the plank on the tip into a pointed shape (but still dull not to hurt anybody)

The I cut the 5mm CF100 foam in shape of the sword and glued it from both sides around the plank leaving the spot for the base of the wooden stick out, so it merges into the sword. I reinforced the sides of the sword with papermaché and ice cream sticks, which I drilled and glued into the plank too.

I wrapped the handle in a piece of foam and 3dmodelled and printed the swirly decoration for the top of the sword.

I added a lot of other pieces of  5mm and 2mm foam to the sword for decorations adn dremmeled a lot to get the sword into the right shape. I also streamed a lot of this work on my twitch channel, you can watch it in videos below.

Then I made two leather sleeves from old scraps of leather, sewed them on my sewing machine, decorated them, glued the falps inside, turned upside down and I put them on the handle and glued them in place. For the whole project I used woodglue for glueing the wooden core pieces, contact cement for all the foam and leather pieces and ot glue for glueing the 3D printed part in place.

The 3D printed swirl was primed with gray primer and filler, sanded and glued onto the sword. I made a hat to cover this part from 5mm foam and foam clay. I also made some battle damage using my dremel

Then I proceeded to decorate the sword further with 2mm foam (moosgummi) and I also fixed with foamclay and dremmeled all the seams. More about fixing seams IN THIS ARTICLE.

Then I primed the foam pieces with SEAL PRIME by polyprops. I made the same texture as on the rest of the armor using THIS TECHNIQUE. And I painted it with black and silver acrylic colors using sponge technique.

The finished sword measures 160 cm, is fairly lightweight and thanks to high density foam withstands a lot of damage.

Here are all the videos of my progress on the sword I streamed:

Sledujte hru Apollyon sword - crafting 1 od uživatele DATgermia na adrese

Sledujte hru Apollyon sword 2 od uživatele DATgermia na adrese

Sledujte hru Apollyon sword 3 od uživatele DATgermia na adrese

Sledujte hru Apollyon sword 4 od uživatele DATgermia na adrese

Sledujte hru Making old metal look on foam armor od uživatele DATgermia na adrese

And that's it! I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM

And if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON, because their donations made this tutorial possible.