Germia - gaming world

Making Flame Fury whip with LED light strips by Germia

My cosplay of Flame Fury from Darksiders was one of the most challenging costumes I've ever done! I had to learn so many new techniques and try so many new things!
Fury's whip was one of the most challenging things on the whole costume - how to make it glow and still move like a normal whip? How to make it durable enough to withstand neverending movement and bending? How to make it convincing, eye-catching  and simply how to make a good prop? How to make the blades hold on it? So many questions!

I decided to share with you my 2 progresses, because I made 2 version of the whip together with advantages and disadvantages of those 2 options :)


I added screws in Meshmixer 3D software to the model of the whip made by Vertvixen to be able to unscrew the whip on 2 places and remove or exchange batteries/powerbanks in the whip easily. I printed it out in black filament, covered the screws with tape and primed and sanded it.

I also 3D printed the gemstones modelled by Vertvixen, primed and sanded them and made 2 different types of molds to cast them from red resin. For the biggest gem I've made a border from lego pieces inserted the gem inside and poured the silicone around it. I let it dry, got rid of the border and took the gem outside the silicone and used the mold to cast my gem from red gedeo crystal resin. For the smaller gems, I've made the mold from Siligum, which is a type of rubber silicone, that you mix 2 parts together, wrap around the item and let dry for 10 minutes and after that your mold is done.

Then I casted the gems from red gedeo crystal resin and let them dry for a day. When they got hard, I took them out of the mold and sprayed them with transparent varnish for better look.

I've casted my gems a little too dark red and the dark red color doesn't allow a lot of light to go through. If you plan to lighten up your gems, use only a little of red resin and mix it with transparent resin, so your gems can shine bright. You can also use resin inks, but always try to keep the color light.

In this video, I'm making siligum molds for all the gems (later I've done the silicone mold with lego pieces becuase the quality of the siligum mold wasn't good, since siligum wasn't flexible enough to take the gem out of the mold and it cracked). I'm also 3D modelling the screws into the whip and painting some armor pieces:

Sledujte hru Stěžejní scéna: Casting gems and modelling whip for Fury with teta Germi (games later?) od uživatele DATgermia na adrese


I painted the primed and sanded pieces with acrylic colors and car varnishes. I've used Motip Skoda 9152 and pearl black airbrush color by Createx for dark shades on my armor and Motip Skoda 9157 for lighter places on my armor combined with Tamiya chrome for highlights and basic brown and black oil colors for weathering and shading.

Painting video:

Sledujte hru Stěžejní scéna: Casting gems and modelling whip for Fury with teta Germi (games later?) od uživatele DATgermia na adrese


I wrapped the handle in some rests of brown leather I had lying around from my Xena cosplay. I bought the leather as a leather jacket in second hand store for very cheap. I wrapped the handle very unevenly, so it looks more "Darksiderish" and I glued it with contact glue Pattex Extreme. Then I used black and brown oil colors to weather the whole whip including the handle. (oil.jpg) Be careful, oil colors can do very good shading effects, but get dry very very slowly. And the handle was done.


I added a small 1 LED light circuit with 3V battery to lighten up the gems. I installed the circuit into a small piece of foam dowel to be able to exchange battery easily and switch the circuit on and off easily.  When I was done with the circuit, I glued the circuit inside with hotglue and I glued the gems in the handle with transparent epoxy glue.


I had 3D files for the blades modelled by Vertvixen, so I remodelled and cut out the lower part to fit them onto the middle part of the whip, printed them out, smoothened them with primer and filler and sanded them. Lukoprene mold was made in 2 parts, that hold together with plaster.
I decided to use casting foam for the blades, because just 3D printed blades from hard plastic filament would be very dangerous for people around you. I decided to use the hardest casting foam - FlexFoam IT 25, because I didn't want to have the blades wobbly and gooy, but I think maybe you can go even for FlexFoam IT 14 to make them hold the shape well.
Casting the foam isn't easy, because the pot time is really short and you have to work very fast. But if you are successful, the outcome is very nice.

 I think you can also use normal foam, that you sand down and cut or print the blades in flexible filament, but both of those ways are very time consuming and not a perfect solution.

For painting, I do not recommend priming the FlexFoam with PlastiDip or similar products, because they don't go together very well and it will peel off (It happened to me and I had to scrape the paint off the blades and repaint them.) The best paint, that holds very well on Flexfoam is Tamiya modelling color - I've used Tamiya Gunmetal for mine.

In this video I'm working with expandible foam and casting it into the molds:

Sledujte hru Casting expandible foam (Flexfoam IT 25) to make blades for Fury's whip. od uživatele DATgermia na adrese

I made the final blade from Poly props CF100 foam, sanded it, primed it with black HexFlex primer and base color and painted it with Lumiere colors.  I also glued other blades from Flexfoam IT 25 painted with Tamiya colors.

If you want to make this final blade, download the pattern HERE


For my first try of the whip, I took 2,5m long red rope and I painted it orange and yellow for fireish look.
Then I glued the blades onto the whip with hotglue and sewed them inside the rope.
 After that, I added fairy wire lights, that you can buy for a small amount of money almost everywhere. You can power them with USB or 2x3V batteries. I recommend USB and small round powerbank, that you can insert inside your whip - it shines much brighter.
If you want to use more light strands, I recommend batteries, because you can hide even 6 pack of batteries inside of the whip, but only 1-2 powerbanks. I glued the lights with hotglue onto the rope.

The rope is fastened inside the handle with a ring foam piece glued with hotglue to the rope.

Advantage: Flexibility, movability, sturdiness, easier to make

Disadvantage: Not as eyecatching as LED lights strip, wire in the lights can get broken


Because I wanted to make my whip to look more like a flame and make it more eye-catching at THQ Nordic booth, I decided to remake it with programmable LED strips. I've used Arduino Nano clone for programming, downloaded the software from Adafruit website, downloaded NeoPixel and FastLED library and tried several different Flame and lava effects. Finally I installed the famous Flame effect from Mark Kriegsman called Fire2012.

I reprogrammed it a little, because it is very energy-consuming and the circuit had troubles powering it up - keep in mind, that for the best effect, you have to use 2 LED light strips.

To connect the LED strips to the Arduino, you have to solder the 5V, GND and signal wire to the LED strip and solder 5V wire with 5V marked hole, GND wire with GND marked hole and signal wire to one of the numbered holes according to your programm (in mine the programm refers to pin 6, so you have to connect it in the hole marked "6") You connect the arduino through USB to computer and in your Arduino IDE free software choose the right device (Arduino Nano in my case), the right port (COM4) and the right processor (written on Arduino), then copy the programm inside the software. You have to also install FastLED library (or Adafruit Neopixel for other effects and "strandtest") from Sketch>Add library>Manage libraries.
Then you can upload your code inside the microchip.

I've used 120 LEDS on each side and my whip is 2m long. I've used 60LEDS/m 5V WS2812B LED light strip. Be careful on the direction of the LED strip when installing it - the signal has to always go in the direction of the arrows on your LED strip! I inserted both light strips into a transparent garden hose, that I wrapped in red modistic tube - a kind of net used for making hats, so my whip is always red even when it isn't switched on.
I also drilled a hole inside the upper part of the whip handle, so I can insert a switch for the LED's, because I knew the effects is consuming a lot of energy and I wanted to be able to switch it off/on very fast and easy. Even I reprogrammed the effect to be less power consuming, I need to exchange my powerbanks 3 times/day.

 I glued and taped the circuit inside the upper part of the whip handle and the powerbank goes in the middle of the handle. I glued also a chunk of foam onto the garden hose, so it doesn't move away from the handle.

If you want to use Flame programm, you can download it HERE

Flame Fury - Photo: Milos Mlady Photo



I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM.

And if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON, because their donations made this tutorial possible.

Special thanks to THQ Nordic, Vertvixen and Darksiders game by Gunfire Games!

And if you want to know more about this awesome Darksiders project, visit our #Darksiderslegion website full of useful info!



Minitutorials by Germia - carbon fiber, wig untangling

Aloy concept art by Guerilla Games, from which I took
inspiration for my Megari original character
I came up with smaller mosaic tutorials, that describe the process of making very easily, very fast and can maybe fit wider audiences, because sometimes I feel my longer tutorials can be very time-consuming for me to write and for the reader to read.

So far I made 2 of those shorter ones, but since they tend up to be lost on social sites, I decided to sum them up into one article and maybe explain them more for those, who prefer longer descriptions :)

1) Carbon Fiber surface

If you want to make a carbon fiber surface on your cosplay, you have several options how to do it, but this one works the best for me:

1) paint your armor/prop/cosplay black. Take a sieve and put it very close to the surface of your cosplay. Spraypaint the surface through the sieve with color of your desire, but metallic gray or darker silver works the best. Remember the sieve cannot be used for cooking after that! This can be done also with meshed fabric (or actually anything with meshed structure)

There are two more options for you to choose if you don't like this method. You can:

2) Use carbon fiber sticker for cars - it is good for straighter surfaces, but it can be heated up a little and bended too. (On the rocket launcher picture, you can see me using the carbon fiber sticker first, but since the surface was really bulky, it wouldn't stick well and fit well, so I decided to use a sieve eventually).

3) Mustered stamp from foam
Some foam mats have a structure on the bottom side and you can use the structure as a stamp. Just dip it in lighter color and stamp it on the thing you want to carbonize!
If you don't have stuctured foam, just make not very deep cuts into your foam in two directions, heat it up with your heatgun till the cuts open up
and then use it as a stamp.

2) Wig untangling

I've seen a video of a guy untangling his wig with such force, that I almost cried for the poor wig, so I decided to show you how I take care of my wigs.

On the left pic you can see the wig of Xena after a con - fairly tangled and messed up.
1) Put your wig at a head dummy - I made a hole into my head dummy and put it on my mannequin stand.
2) Spray your wig with a non-wash hair conditioner or a simple mix of fabric conditioner with water.
3) Take a comb with teeth further apart and start combing your wig FROM THE BOTTOM TO THE ROOTS.
Do not use s lot of force and help it by holding the hair with your hand to prevent the wig from tearing the hair out. Move slowly upwards and take your time.

3) Felt feathers 

Feathers are a common part of a cosplay and for a lot of projects, the real feathers look the best. But for my Shadow Carja warrior, I took inspiration from this design regarding the feathers, where they can really be done well with felt feathers. My friend Ali cosplays as Helis and chose this solution for his cosplay and also recommended using this technique!
There are three more advantages of using felt instead of real feathers:
1) FLEXIBILITY If you use a wire for a core, you can bend them in any direction you need and the will hold the shape.
2) DURABILITY If you've ever had real feathers on your cosplay, you know they can be destroyed or damaged very easily. That is not the case
3) CUSTOMIZABILITY If you have troubles finding feathers in the right color, length or shape, this is the best solution for you.
And how to make them?
You just need a lot of felt - and I discovered using felt in yardage is better than using creative felt (I guess creative felt has lower quality). I took a piece of it, cut it in half and had two same pieces of felt. I drew the aproximate shapes of the feathers I liked on one piece of the felt (but you can use a pattern for the feathers if you need to have them the same shape). Then I cut a binding wire - it should be always a little longer than the feather (on one side). I sprayed the felt (both pieces) with bullet bond spray glue (please cover your floor before spraying the glue, or it will be sticky forever lol), laid one wire into each feather (on one of the pieces) and glue the felt pieces to each other. Then I cut the felt feathers out of the felt piece one by one with scissors, made small cuts on the sides to make them look more feathery and fluffy and airbrushed them with darker color to make them look more real and 3D.

Good luck on your projects, guys! :)

Shadow Carja warrior Megari (Germia), Helis (Ali), Aloy Shadow Stalwart (Ketrin)

I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM.

And if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON.



Scales for your cosplay - tutorial by Germia

Dragonkin Skadi from Smite
cosplay by Germia
photo by Milos Mlady photo

Making scale armor on your cosplay can be tough and time-consuming, but the result really pays off!

I was working on my foam scale armor for the last few months, so I'll describe you the process of my work and maybe show you some other ways how to make scale maille for your cosplay :)

1) Scales

Making 3D scales from foam is not very hard work, but since you need mostly a lot of them, ti can be very time-consuming. I recommend doing always each step for all the scales, so you can work faster.
Start by making a pattern of your scale - for my cosplay of Dragonkin Skadi, I had different shapes of scales on bracers, skirt, pauldrons and cape, so always think about the shape you need first and make a pattern. It's good to bend the paper and make the pattern symmetrical by drawing only half of it on one side and getting the second side the same when cut with scissors.
Transfer the pattern on foam - I've used 0,5 mm foam by polyprops. Cut the scales and dremmel the edges a little to make them a little round and organic.
Mark the symmetrical middle on your scales and cut there a V shape with a very sharp knife - but do not cut all through, just into middle of the foam's mass. Put a contact cement glue inside the cavity, let it dry a little and glue it together - the scale will make a roof shape. Then take a soldering iron or woodburning iron and draw cracks into the scales for better organic look. Glue your scales onto the place, prime them, paint them and you are done :)
If you need more pictures to see, check out my instagram stories collection regarding Dragonkin Skadi WIP pics :)

Making scales is really time-consuming and it maybe doesn't fit your needs, so I marked down few alternatives, that can help you with your scales making:

1) Flat foam scales to purchase 

Some shops offer foam scales, that are already cut into desired shape from high quality foam - it can be and alternative to the time-consuming cutting of your own ones!
I've seen them HERE or HERE.

2) 3D printed scalemaille

If you own a 3D printer, you can use it to print your own scalemaille without any problems. You just need a 3D printer, filament and a meshed fabric to print the scales on. I actually don't know who came up with this amazing idea, but I know a guy, who tries to improve this idea further - making snap-on scales and other great stuff HERE.
Or you can just download the files for them HERE

3) Real scalemaille 

I think I don't have to mention, that you can make your own scalemaille from bought metal scales and attach them on chainmaille, but if you are not familiar with that technique, check out for example this VIDEO.

4) Others

There are many different techniques how to make scales on your armor - depending on the size and properties you need, choose your materials accordingly :)
P.S. - some people use also plastic spoons!

Dragonkin Skadi from Smite
cosplay by Germia
photo by Milos Mlady photo
I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM.

And if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON.



Gemstones with effects + dragon eyes made easy - tutorial by Germia

Gemstones are an important part od costume and jewellery making and during my cosplay making, I perfected my art of making gemstones with the help of different internet tutorials and tips and tricks I found out myself!
So come and take a look how I make those gemstones and what you gonna need to make them.

1) Cabochons

Depending on the shape that you want to achieve you have to either buy or cast the main "glassy" part. In mineral, beading and jewellery making jargon, you can find those glassy part under the term cabochon - Cabochon is a shape of a cut stone/glass/bead, that is flat from the bottom side and round from the upper, so it perfectly sits in a bezel and the flat side ensures better fit on a human body.

Výsledek obrázku pro cabochon shape


Easiest way is buying them and you can find cabochons in different sizes and shapes on ebay, Aliexpress or in some bead-shops.
Advantages are, that you get only glass cabochon and glass can withstand a lot of stress and is perfectly translucent.
Disadvantages: There are only limited sizes and shapes you can buy and it takes long to arrive.
Look for example into links below or search "cabochon glass":

Gédéo Křišťálová pryskyřice, 150ml
Výsledek obrázku pro gedeo siligum


If there is no desired shape available for the build you have, you can make a mold and cast the gem with crystal resin.
Casting is time consuming and silicone+resin aren't the cheapest materials, but sometimes you have no other choice. For starters, I can recommend these more expensive, but widely available materials: Crystal resin and mold making paste by Gedeo. There are also several similar materials available on ebay - check this.
There a lot of other more professional materials available, but this will be enough for start, I'm testing better materials myself right now.
FIMO Soft 57g (8020-0) bílá

First you have to make a desired shape from some other material - I modelled mine in computer and printed it on my 3D printer and sanded well to make my gemstones, but I think the best alternative is to make it from a polymer clay - be sure to sand the polymer clay down after baking too, so your gemstone has a perfectly smooth finish. Then mix the siligum components and press the clay gemstone into it and leave for 5+ minutes. Be sure to work fast - the siligum gets hard very very fast. Then take your gem out of the siligum and you have a finished mold - you can mix the crystal resin components and pour it in your mold. Be sure to mix it accordingly - lot of resins have different mix ratio and if mixed poorly or in bad ratio, the resin won't harden. Wait 24h (depending on resin type), take your gemstone outta the mold and you're done!

If the surface of the gemstone isn't perfect, sand it down with sandpaper -start with rougher and continue to smoother and as a final touch spray with clear varnish.

2) Nail polish, glitter, bodkin

If you have your cabochons prepared, we can start coloring them!
You just need a wide variety of nail polish and glitter. And if you have some experience with nail care, it will be perfect for this.

Magic cabochons:

If you want to create very shiny cabochons with magical effects, you'll need a lot of glitter, holographic/chameleon glitter at best, transparent nail polish and dark black nail polish.

You start by applying transparent nail polish. Then take your glitter and make up brush, catch with it some glitter and tap it on the surface
of the cabochon.

As last layer, use other color of nail polish according what you need for your cosplay. Keep in mind, that most glitter looks best on dark background (black). On the picture, you see glitter on black nail polish and only 2 medium cabochons have blue background nail polish.

You can also combine a lot of other stuff - different patterns, different nail polish colors and different glitters, but in my experience, bigger glitterflakes make much better look than smaller particles.
I buy my glitter on ebay too searching "holographic/chameleon nail glitter" - check this.

Dragon eyes:

...or any other eye you decide to do!

As with magic cabochons, you'll just apply nail polish on the flat side of the cabochon.
Start with black nail polish - I recommend using some nontranslucent black with very thin pointy brush. Make the pupil in the middle - having a checkered paper under the eye will help you make the pupil in the exact middle. make the pupil very "hairy" - it doesn't need to be even - help yourself with a bodkin to spread the nail polish to your liking. Then I make a hairy border around the whole eye with the black nail polish. I let it dry and then I start with  the darkest color in the border, adding lighter and ligher color asi I go in the middle. I mix the colors together with bodkin asi I go - always making movements that are radial - from the  middle to borders. Watch me working on it in my video below, or see a tutorial, where I've learned this technique here.


And this is what you can do with your creations:

This is the eye I made in the video up there! 
Becaus of nail polish translucency,
you can use LED's to lighten the cabs up!

Dragonkin Skadi from Smite cosplay I needed those eyes for
photographed by Milos Mlady photography

Or this pendant:

This article was made with support of my Patrons on my Patreon! There will be no time doing this without them!
I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM.

and if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON.




Xena the warrior princess - cosplay by Germia

1) Why I chose to make this costume:

I still remember how I played as a child to be Xena - this badass heroine, how I wanted to be courageous and righteous like her and fight against evil. She was with Hercules one of my fav characters and she had so much positive influence on me!
This project was simply a fullfilled dream of mine and I didn't make it to compete in any contest or appear on any event, I just made it to feel great and empowering.

2) Original character:

3) How I made this costume

As I've already mentioned in my article about Xena's sword and chakram, sometimes the more info you have about something doesn't have to be excatly positive for your working process - in other words - more doesn't mean better. I really struggled with different versions of Xena's armor, garment and sword and I ended up lookin at several different prop replicas of it. There are so many different versions!
You can either choose the parts of the costumes you like and combine them freely or tryto stick with one era od Xena's TV series and choose one stable version of her armor.

But even that there are a slight different versions of Xena, the main armor is quite known and you can easily find patterns for all the pieces in different qualities. For example this one. Or you can use my patterning guide and design your own patterns!

And and advantage of this tutorial/article is, that I streamed a lot of my work on my twitch channel, so if you don't understand something, you can look at the video and see how I did it! Of course I didn't stream every single piece of this costume, but most of the parts are there!

And yeah, this was my base material:

1) Gauntlets and armbands

I laid my hand on the paper and drew a pattern in the shape of the gauntlet, I bend the paper in half, so both sides are symmetrical and then I drew the pattern inside.

I transfered the pattern onto an old leather jacket, cut it and sew around it.
I took a wooden breadbord, glued a baking paper on it and put the pattern under it.I cut a strap of moosgummi and wrapped it in black worbla and made border out of that (sandwich technique). I had some black worbla rests laying here and this was the perfect project for getting rid of them. I took the black worbla rests, heated them up and made triangular shapes, which I formed accordingly. I heated then the whoole structure and bend it around a stick to fit on my hand. I added holes, that I burnt into the borders with my wood engraving tool.
I smoothened the gauntlet with gesso and latex cement, painted with black acrylic colors and bronze and gold color tapped on it with sponge. Then I took hot glue and glued the structure onto the leather base on few places. I added brass rivets I bought here, that went through the border and the leather base. Then I shaded the crafted parts with brown and black and I shaded also the leather part with dark brown color for leather by Artemiss. The gauntlets have no meansof holding on my arm, the are just there because of the strength of worbla - no lacing needed!

 I did the same with the armbands, only the pattern was rectangular and thsi time, I actually used a brown shoelace to make them hold better on my arm - I just poked holes wih my woodengraving tool inside the leather and inserted hole rivets there.

2) Pauldrons

Pauldrons were made similarly - I drew first the armor decoration pattern on the paper
Modelled the worbla rests accordingly, drew the pattern of the leather base tracing the finihed worbla decoration. I transfered the paper pattern onto leather, cut, underglued the leather with moosgummi for better wearing comfort and more solid piece. I sewed around the part, added rivets and strap for the backside and eyelets.

Then I heated the decoration, bended it to fit my shoulders and sew it on the place, added gesso and cement and painted.

On the backside there is an eyelet that goes to the back armor strap. On each pauldron is a leather strap that goes behind the neck so the pauldrons don't fall of the shoulders.

In the front there is a bend leather so the wire decoration can be put through the front part. Originally I had there two rivers, but since the pauldrons wer not very fitting, I had to put out those rivets and shorten the pauldrons a little (The difference can be seen on pictures by Milos Mlady - longer pauldron with front rivets and Eugene Art - no rivets, shorter pauldron, better fitting),

3) Corset

I drawn a pattern on a paper and assembled it together with tape to try it on my body. When I was satisfied with the pattern, I transfered it onto leather from leather jacket I got in  second hand store, then I underglued it with unvowen fabric and sewn it with other pieces in a double stitch, so you can put the plastic reinforcements into the seam. Then I cut it according to the marked patterns.
I made the same with the breast cups and I sewn them by hand into theirp lace on the corset. Then I handsewn all the borders inside the corset.
 I added the cprset decoration in the front and I made holes on the backside and put the hole rivets for lacing in there.
I added straps for the corset to hold on it'S place that go on my shoulders. I made the front and back eyelet fixed in a strong rubberband, so it is a little stretchy and it doesn't restrict my movement.

4) Skirt

Skirt was kinda difficult to make - I had studied a lot of reference pictures in order to find out how many straps there are and eventually I made it like this:
color difference
I've made a belt first, that will hold all the straps. Then I drew the shapes of the understraps, that are plain and have no rivets on them, I cut them out and lay down on the belt till I was satisfied with their amount.
It is really important to lay them in two layers and let them overlay partly (like on the picture). On each top layer goes one riveted strap. Only in the front I put 3 riveted straps nexto to each other, since I've seen then on some referrences and I think it looks better.
layout of straps
front part
The riveted straps are made from small leather scales, that overlay each other. I riveted them together and sewed all the straps into the belt, that I wrap aroud myself and fasten it with velcro and eyelets. I've encountered a problem by working on the skirt - I ran out of the original brown leather jacket, so I had to use another one, that had a little reddish shade into it, so I had to eventually take Artemiss leather colors and paint all the reddish parts brown - just with a brush, it was surprisingly easy - the outcome can be seen in the picture with straps layout.

5) Kneepads

 The work on kneepads was surprisingly very easy - I drew the patterns first and tried if they fit on my knee, then I transfered them on moosgummi. I added glued moosgummi details on top of this layer and glued a leather layer onto it. ¨Then I sew arounf the borders and around the decorations and this 3D effect was born. I painted the 3D parts with golden acrylic color, added straps, rivets and glued the two pieces together.

6) Back armor

 Back Armor is a swirly thing, that is holding to pauldrons and  breastplate I started drawing my pattern on paper, cutting it out and transfering on foam. Then I dremelled the foam into the desired shape and coveredit in worbla with sandwich technique. I smoothened the borders with woodburning tool. Then I took the rests of the worbla and formed them into smaller swirls and attached them to the bigger ones.
I took my mannequin and I slowly heated the piece carefully so no bubbles pop out and formed the piece on my mannequin.
Then made holes with my woodburning iron on the upper side and on the side and soldered pins, there, which hold the leather straps. Then I applied gesso and cement and paint.

7) Breastplate armor

Breastplate armor was very tricky to make! I started with acrylic halfballs, that I sprayed with vaseline. I cut two pieces of worbla, heated them up and connected together and formed around the acrylic ball.
I dres a pattern of the middle part on paper, cut it from 1mm foam and sanded in shape. I did the same with the swirls on the side and I covered all those parts in worbla too.
Then I took the both cups and I wrapped them partially in mossgummi, since there is a small border in the middle of the boobiecups on referrences.I took modelling clay, just a normal cheap modelling clay and I modelled the ornaments she has on the breastplate. I added three moon shapes in the middle of boobiecup made from moosgummi. I let it dry and then I covered it in one black worbla layer.
Then I attached all the parts together. I made small holes on the sides to hold to backarmor and I soldered a leather strap into it.Then I added a strap of worbla on each boobiecup, in which I made small holes with woodburning iron. I glued to that leather wrapping and added rivets into the holes, that hold also the strap, that goes into pauldron wiring. Then I primed it, painted it with sponge with bronze and gold color and that's it!

8) Corset decoration and pauldron wiring

 The decoration on the bottom part of the corset was made again out of the black worbla rests - I've drawn a pattern first on paper, put it inside baking paper and wooden board, heated up small pieces of black worbla and put into shape. Then I primed it and painted it and sew onto the corset.

I've used a really thick wire, that I formed with shears in the shape. To avoid the wire slipping away and to avoid the wire to be dangerous, I soldered little tin balls on the ends.

9) Wig

To be honest I was lucky with the wig - the wig I bought was very cheap, and it required only minimal styling. It came wavy, so I had to straighten it down - I just spray the wig with water and straight it till the water is all gone.
Then I just curled the fringe a little and it was done. I added a braid, that was typical for Xena in early episodes.
The only disadvantage is, that the wig is a little smaller and I can't really put all my hair under it.

I bought both things on ebay and the price was 8 dollars for both together lol:

10) Boots

Have you ever tried to find high laced shoes in brown color? It is just impossible to find!
I was so desperate, that I ordered the boots from Aliexpress - I usually do not order clothes or shoes from Ebay or Aliexpress, but I had no choice, but they turned out perfect for this OMG!
The only disadvantage is it took very very very long to ship them. I waited several months for them and they costed 30 dollars - I've chosen the dark brown ones.
But if you want the same shoes as me, they are quite comfortable and they fit perfectly: BOOTS

11) Chakram

Before working on your own chakram, please, check out those tips and tricks article with all the patterns included!.

I've started with two thin layers (0,5mm each) of expanded polystyren, I glued them together with polystyrene glue (don't use chemoprene!). And I shaped them with dremel sander - I also made a little holes for inserting abalone shell inlays.
Then I sandwiched the whole thing in black worbla and I added the engraving with my wood burning iron. Then I hotglued the abalone shells inside the holes, I primed the wotbla, painted it with acrylic colors and I've used a little airbrush to make the inlays stand out more. And since I didn't mask the inlay shells, I scratched the paint from the shells afterwards. And to spare money and material - I even cut the shells in half, because it had two sides.

12) Sword

 I made a pattern in my computer with the help of the pictures on the internet, I transfered it on PVC layers, cut it out, added two polystyrene layers for blade and one laers for handle, cut that and sanded in the shape.
 I covered it in worbla and I smoothened the borders/connections with woodburning tool.
 Ten I took black worbla and I added a lot of decorations, that I blended with woodburning iron and I also added abalone shells - 3 on each side and one in the pommel - with worbla borders
I primed the worbla with gesso and latex cement (several layers) and I sanded them down with sandpapers and sandsponges and polished with water.
Then I painted it with black base color, added long leather strap that I wrapped around the handle and painted with brown Artemiss colors for leather. Then I painted the rest with gold and silver Pebeo colors with sponge technique.

Do not forget to check my progress videos - there is a lot of progress shown real-time!

And here are some pictures of my done cosplay :)

This article was made with support of my Patrons on my Patreon! There will be no time doing this without them!
I hope this article will be useful for someone and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE or TWITTER or INSTAGRAM.

and if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my PATREON.